I am falling in love with the city of Medellin! This is probably one of the best weeks I have had in my entire backpacking journey, in terms of soaking in fascinating stories and having unique experience.
Medellin has undergone a dramatic face-lift in the past two decades, going from the world’s most dangerous city in the 1990s to one of the most innovative cities in 2017. When people think of Medellin, the first thing that come to their mind is always the same: Pablo Escobar.
Pablo Escobar, the most notorious Colombian drug lord. He was often called “The King of Cocaine” and was the wealthiest criminal in history. His Medellin Cartel controlled 80% of the global cocaine market at the height of his career, turning over US $22 billion / year in personal income (equivalent to $56 billion / year in today’s money), making him one of the world’s wealthiest men in his prime.
In the 1960s, Escobar began to engage in criminal activities like selling contraband cigarettes, fake lottery tickets, and stealing cars; in the 1970s, he began to smuggle powder cocaine into the US, resulting in massacres and the murders of police officers, judges, locals, and prominent politicians; Because of Escobar, Colombia became the murder capital of the world – The increased murder rate was fueled by Escobar’s giving money to his hitmen as a reward for killing police officers; in 1989, Escobar bombed an Avianca passenger flight (flying from Bogota to Cali), killing 110 people and hoping it would kill presidential candidate Gaviria Trujillo. Gaviria, however, was not on the aircraft and went on to become President of Colombia.
While seen as an enemy of the US and Colombian governments, Escobar was a hero to many in Medellin – Especially the poor people. He constructed houses and football fields in western Colombia, which gained him popularity among the poor. He worked hard to cultivate his Robin Hood image, and frequently distributed money through housing projects and other civic activities; in 1993, Escobar was shot and killed in Medellin by Colombian National Police, one day after his 44th birthday.
Learning about Pablo Escobar from the locals (rather than learning from the Netflix series), witnessing the transformation of Medellin / Comuna 13, and experiencing new things at Selina have definitely been the highlight of Colombia so far – Coming up: Bogota and Cali.
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
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In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
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In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
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In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
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In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
\\
In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
\\
In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
\\
In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
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In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
People who live in Comuna 13 earn little income, but many have the mindset of good entrepreneurs: They realized unsatisfied needs and set up booths right outside their houses to sell drinks and souvenirs.
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I don’t usually buy souvenirs (my small backpack doesn’t allow me to). But it is fascinating to see the transformation of Comina 13 in the past decade, going from the center of armed conflicts to where they are now – And so I picked up this book (from a vendor inside Comuna 13). Will probably finish this book in a week before I leave Colombia and will share my thoughts.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
\\
In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Comuna 13, also known as the San Javier, is a neighborhood that was controlled by groups loyal to Escobar. It was once labeled the most dangerous community due to its astronomical homicide rates. Comuna 13 is an over-populated and low socio-economic zone that crawls up along the west hills of the city with thousands of brick and cement homes stacked close to one another. It was a pivotal center for gang activity. Its location is ideal for crime, as it leads directly to the main highway (San Juan Highway), providing easy transportation of guns, drugs, and money.
\\
In 2002, 10 years after Escobar’s death, a pivotal event happened in Comuna 13: The Colombian military carried out a strike to overthrow all rebel groups in the neighborhood. Over 1000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area (comprising of roughly 100,000 inhabitants). 9 people were killed (3 children) and hundreds were wounded. Although the inhabitants were furious about the strike, as time goes by many realize that the event has brought positive changes to them by cleaning up the community.
@Medellin
Transformation tour with two Medellin locals, the Comuna 13 community leader, traveler from Mexico, and traveler from the Netherlands.
@Medellin
People who live in Comuna 13 earn little income, but many have the mindset of good entrepreneurs: They realized unsatisfied needs and set up booths right outside their houses to sell drinks and souvenirs.
\\
I don’t usually buy souvenirs (my small backpack doesn’t allow me to). But it is fascinating to see the transformation of Comina 13 in the past decade, going from the center of armed conflicts to where they are now – And so I picked up this book (from a vendor inside Comuna 13). Will probably finish this book in a week before I leave Colombia and will share my thoughts.
@Medellin
Medellin walking tour. In this 4-hour tour, we stopped at a dozen of places, going through the history of Colombia and some fascinating stories behind it. Our group had 25 travelers from the Netherlands, Germany, France, UK, Switzerland, and the US – 90% of the group were Europeans. I was one of the only two Americans (and the only Asian).
Our walking tour guide, who has been doing the tour for quite sometime now, mentioned that 80% of the tourists visiting Colombia are from the Netherlands. The Dutch definitely love Colombia!
@Medellin
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
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When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Medellin
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Medellin
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Medellin
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Medellin
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Medellin
I am falling in love with the Selina hostel chain. Located in El Poblado, one of the most upscale neighborhoods in Medellin, the Selina offers free daily yoga class, Spanish class, city tours, workshops, game nights, DJs, and many more. Not only that, it also has its own barber shop, bike shop, tattoo shop, and co-work space for startup folks / digital nomads to come in and work. There is a community within the hostel and plenty to do without even leaving the building. I stayed at the Selina in Medellin for over a week.
@Medellin
I am falling in love with the Selina hostel chain. Located in El Poblado, one of the most upscale neighborhoods in Medellin, the Selina offers free daily yoga class, Spanish class, city tours, workshops, game nights, DJs, and many more. Not only that, it also has its own barber shop, bike shop, tattoo shop, and co-work space for startup folks / digital nomads to come in and work. There is a community within the hostel and plenty to do without even leaving the building. I stayed at the Selina in Medellin for over a week.
@Medellin
I am falling in love with the Selina hostel chain. Located in El Poblado, one of the most upscale neighborhoods in Medellin, the Selina offers free daily yoga class, Spanish class, city tours, workshops, game nights, DJs, and many more. Not only that, it also has its own barber shop, bike shop, tattoo shop, and co-work space for startup folks / digital nomads to come in and work. There is a community within the hostel and plenty to do without even leaving the building. I stayed at the Selina in Medellin for over a week.
@Medellin
My Colombian Spanish teacher at Selina. The hostel offers free 1-hour Spanish class every Wednesday evening – Not a whole lot of time but a good refresher.
@Medellin
My Colombian yoga instructor at Selina. Did yoga with her a couple of times. Selina has daily morning yoga and weekly sunset yoga. Interesting experience.
@Medellin
A TV show filming at Selina. That is something.
@Medellin
Salsa lesson at Salina every Wednesday evening. I did a beginner class at another Selina in Nicaragua a few weeks back. This class in Medellin was way more advanced and definitely not for beginners.
@Medellin
Flying from Panama City to Medellin over the Darien Gap. In Central America, it makes sense to travel by buses because Central American countries are relatively small and travelling overland is fairly manageable; in South America, the countries are a lot bigger and flying is a better option.
@Medellin
Since 1960s, Colombia has suffered from an armed conflict between the government, the extreme left-wing, the extreme right-wing, and the drug dealers. The conflict escalated in the 1990s, mainly in remote rural areas.
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The reasons for fighting vary from group to group: The government claims to be fighting for order and stability. The left and the right claim to be fighting for the rights of the poor, while both have been accused of engaging in drug trafficking and terrorism.
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After the Colombian Government dismantled Escobar’s drug cartel, the left and the right resumed some of the drug-trafficking activities. They also resorted to kidnapping for funding new weapons to attack military and civilian targets. In 2000, left-wing terrorist groups like the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) and the National Liberation Army (ELN) set up roadblocks on major highways to kidnap travelers. As my Medellin tour guide said, her family and other families in Medellin were afraid of travelling anywhere more than a couple of hours away due to the risk of kidnapping.
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In 2016, President Juan Manuel Santos was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts to bring the country’s more than 50-year-long civil war to an end, as he signed a historic ceasefire deal with the left-wing terrorist groups FARC and ELN.
@Medellin
Since 1960s, Colombia has suffered from an armed conflict between the government, the extreme left-wing, the extreme right-wing, and the drug dealers. The conflict escalated in the 1990s, mainly in remote rural areas.
\\
The reasons for fighting vary from group to group: The government claims to be fighting for order and stability. The left and the right claim to be fighting for the rights of the poor, while both have been accused of engaging in drug trafficking and terrorism.
\\
After the Colombian Government dismantled Escobar’s drug cartel, the left and the right resumed some of the drug-trafficking activities. They also resorted to kidnapping for funding new weapons to attack military and civilian targets. In 2000, left-wing terrorist groups like the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) and the National Liberation Army (ELN) set up roadblocks on major highways to kidnap travelers. As my Medellin tour guide said, her family and other families in Medellin were afraid of travelling anywhere more than a couple of hours away due to the risk of kidnapping.
\\
In 2016, President Juan Manuel Santos was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts to bring the country’s more than 50-year-long civil war to an end, as he signed a historic ceasefire deal with the left-wing terrorist groups FARC and ELN.
@Medellin
La Catedral, the prison where Escobar served at, has now been rebuilt as a senior apartment. The original security tower and the helicopter landing pad that Escobar arrived at the prison with are still here.
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The prison was built to specifications ordered by Escobar, under a 1991 agreement with the Colombian government in which Escobar would surrender to authorities and serve a maximum term of 5 full years, and the Colombian government would not extradite him to the US; Escobar was also given the right to choose who would guard him, and it was believed he chose guards loyal only to him – The prison was believed to have been designed more to keep out Escobar’s enemies and protect him from assassination attempts, than to keep Escobar in. The finished prison was often called “Hotel Escobar” because of its amenities: The prison featured a soccer field, giant doll house, bar, jacuzzi, and waterfall.
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Although the Colombian government was willing to turn a blind eye to Escobar continuing his drug smuggling, the arrangement fell apart when it was reported Escobar had 4 of his lieutenants murdered within the prison. The Colombian government decided it had to move Escobar to a standard prison, an order Escobar refused. In 1992, after serving 1 year and 1 month, Escobar again went on the run. Although the Colombian National Army surrounded the prison, it is said Escobar simply walked out the back gate. This led to a manhunt that employed a 600-man unit force, specially trained by the US Delta Force, named Search Bloc. Escobar was shot and killed in 1993 by the Colombian National Police.
@Medellin
Los Olivos, the rooftop where Escobar was shot and killed. The house is now an office of a property management company.
@Medellin
Edificio Monaco, home of Pablo Escobar and his family. It has 12 apartments, 30 parking spaces, tennis courts, and 2 swimming pools. The enemies of the cartel launched two explosions here with a car bomb and 80kg of explosives. Four blocks were affected.
@Medellin
Took a cable car up Arvi Park for a morning hike. I didn’t know that hiking in the park required a guide. I also didn’t know that the guide (and the rest of the group) only spoke Spanish LOL. Interesting experience.
@Medellin
Musicians playing Colombian folk music in the park, street vendor selling drinks, and eating empanadas (minced beef and cubed potatoes in deep fried bread).
@Medellin
Bandeja paisa, probably the most popular Colombian dish. A variety of food includes pork blood sausage, fried pork belly, powdered beef, fried egg, avacado, plantain, rice, and beans. A calorie-packed dish that won’t leave you hungry.
@Medellin
More bandeja paisa. I tried this dish half a dozen of times at different places.
@Medellin
Pescado frito (fried whole fish).
@Medellin
Tamale (corn meal wrapped in banana leaves). Comparable to Mexican and Belizian tamale, but definitely wetter than Chinese zong 粽. Colombian put the the entire chicken leg with bone in the tamale. Chinese use pork instead.
@Medellin
Although Latin America was late in getting into the highly-profitable coffee producing business, South America countries (mostly Brazil and Colombia) now produce most of the coffee consumed worldwide. The craze spread from Africa and Arabia to Europe, the Far East, and then to the Americas.
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I am yet to do a coffee farm tour here in Colombia (arranging for a tour is more difficult than I thought, as they only do group tours). But I learned that there are two main types of coffee beans: Arabica and Robusta. Arabica beans (gourmet coffee) are the higher quality beans and represent most of the coffee sold in the world today. They are grown best in warm and humid climates at high elevations; Robusta beans are the lower quality beans (instant coffee). They are grown at lower elevations and are more “robust” / resilient to climate changes.
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In Colombia, Central cordilleras mountain ranges around the cities of Medellin, Armenia, and Manizales are noted as MAM to the coffee world, with Medellin producing coffee with heavy body, rich flavor, and balanced acidity.
@Medellin
Monumento a La Raza, showcasing the timeline of Colombian history from the right to the left. I didn’t quite get it though.
@Medellin
300 light poles at Plaza Cisneros. Used to be one of the most dangerous areas in the city, this place witnesses the transformation of Medellin and has now become a popular tourist attraction.
@Medellin
Memory House Museum, offering different perspectives of Colombian wars and armed conflicts.
@Medellin
The city of Medellin is surrounded by steep hills and the cable car is part of the metro system. In the morning, locals who live on the hills take the cable car to go to work in the city.
@Medellin
The city of Medellin is surrounded by steep hills and the cable car is part of the metro system. In the morning, locals who live on the hills take the cable car to go to work in the city.
@Medellin
Prior to my RTW journey, I signed up for STEP (Smart Traveller Enrollment Program), which is a free service offered by the US Department of State to allow US nationals traveling abroad to enroll with the local US embassies. STEP sends me email whenever there is a travel warning or alert.
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A travel alert doesn’t mean that the entire country is dangerous and that you should not travel there. It is simply telling you to be more cautious; a travel warning, on the other hand, is more substantial and should be treated more seriously.
@Medellin
Botero Museum in Bogota.
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Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Botero Museum in Bogota.
\\
Fernando Botero is a Colombian artist and is considered the most recognized living artist in Latin America. Born in Medellin, his signature style depicts people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor. His art can be found in highly visible places around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Elysees in Paris.
\\
When asked why he always paints fat people, Botero responded, “If I portray a fruit, a landscape, an animal, a man, or anything, deformity is always present to enhance the volume. In which case I don’t see them as fat but with volume.”
@Bogota
Military Museum of Colombia in Bogota. Great museum, but most of the exhibits were in Spanish only. Noticing a non-Spanish speaking tourist wandering around, the Sergeant ended up giving me a 2-hour private tour in English. He explained to me the origin of the armed conflict (FARC, ELN) and Colombia’s role in the Korean War (Colombia was the only Latin American country to fight in the war, helping South Korea fight North Korea. Nowadays Colombian don’t need visa to visit South Korea).
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The Sergeant was pleasantly surprised that I knew about the military uniform change in 2006 (from tropical camouflage to digital camouflage) – I told him that my ex’s family was in the military and that was how I learned about it.
@Bogota
Magazine cover being displayed in the Independence Museum, showing the 1985 attack against the Supreme Court by leftist guerrilla M19 (which was likely to be hired by Pablo Escobar to kill the judges). Hours later, after a military raid, the incident left 93 people dead (11 judges + 35 M19 members + 48 Colombian soldiers). The M19 has later demobilized and become a political party.
@Bogota
Walking tour in Bogota, with a taste of chicha – A fermented (alcoholic) fruit drink made by indigenous people.
@Bogota
Gold Museum.
@Bogota
I picked up this book during my visit to Comuna 13 because I was curious about three things:
1. What caused the armed conflict in Comuna 13?
2. Who was fighting who?
3. How was it like living in Comuna 13 during the conflict?
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I gave myself a week to read this book, but I ended up finishing it in a single day during my last day in Medellin. Below is what I think are the answers to the three questions (based on what I read from the book and comments from various people – Local guides, Sergeant at the Military Museum, etc.):
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1. What caused the armed conflict in Comuna 13?
Leftist politician Jorge Gaitan was assassinated in 1948 during his presidential campaign. The leftist thought that the rightist plotted the assassination, which led to the formation of leftist guerrillas like the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) and the National Liberation Army (ELN) in the 1960s. FARC and ELN started out with the goal of protecting the rights of the poor. But with money (from smuggling drugs) and power (from conquering territories), they slowly lost their ideology and became terriorist groups. To fight FARC and ELN, some rightist paramilitary groups were formed in the 1990s, but they later also became terrorist groups because of similar reason (money + power). Many of these conflicts happened in Comuna 13 because of its strategic location. Although the situation has stablized a lot in the past decade, this is still an ongoing issue especially with the ELN, which the government continues to negotiate ceasefire with.
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2. Who was fighting who?
The extreme left (FARC, ELN, etc.), the extreme right (paramiltary groups), the government, and drug dealers.
This is not as simple as “good guys fighting bad guys”, as the bad guys started out good and good guys sometimes do bad things.
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3. How was it like living in Comuna 13 during the conflict?
The book talks about this in great details. During the period of 1960-2010, people in Comuna 13 pretty much lived their lives dodging bullets everyday: Shooting, kidnapping, car bombs, corpse bombs, and various other crimes.
@Medellin
Colombian flag.
@Bogota
Cali is the Salsa capital of the world. The reason I came to Cali was to take a private Salsa lesson and to experience going to a local Salsa bar. Man they really know their stuff!
@Cali
Food adventure in Cali: Chunchulo (fried cow intestines), chorizo (pork sausage) and aborrajado (fried sweet plantain with mozzarella cheese).
@Cali
